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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.